Alaska Day 8: Off to ChEEna

65°03' N, 146°03' W--Chena Hot Springs, AK

Slept in today, then took a long shower and had a big breakfast. Mindy took some time doing laundry while we waited for the shuttle to the Chena resort (with a long E). We found a restaurant across the street that was actually open, with a proprietor who was gregarious to the point of desperation--it was a little creepy.

Then back to the hotel and the shuttle van for the 60 mile trip across ice covered roads--there were storms in November, and when it's this cold, the ice doesn't go away until late spring. We saw two moose on the way. The resort is what you might expect--a cluster of rustic buildings in a valley. We checked in and found two rooms with their own bathrooms and even a TV--yay! We also signed up for various activities over the next two days. George is still a bit under the weather so Martha, Mindy and I went over to the hot springs (Martha just wanted to look). There are indoor pools, hot tubs, and then there's the "rock pool" with a sandy bottom--all of which use the mineral waters. You have to cross through a sheltered walkway to get to the outdoor pools--I wish we had brought flip-flops. They warned that you would get dehydrated (the waters leach your toxins) and they were right--I was woozy for a few minutes afterwards. I guess I have a lot of toxins.

 

We hung out in our rooms, then it was time for the "aurora snow coach".  Imagine if a tank and a shipping container had a baby. We took a very bumpy 30 minute ride up the mountain trial--Mindy described it like one of those virtual simulator rides without the virtual. I felt like I was in a paint mixer. Then we moved over to the yert--yes I said yert--a 30 foot in circumference tent with a raised top. We hung out there from 10p-2a, hoping to see the aurora. I chatted with a retired advertising exec, did some reading, and dozed a bit. I also availed myself of an outhouse--suffice it to say there was steam involved. It was overcast the whole time, so no northern lights. Back in the snow coaches for the return trip.

So, today's score: 

• Rode a new form of transportation - check
• Sat in a new type of building - check
• Got to see the aurora - sorry, but thanks for playing 

Beard Day 8: I've reached hipster stage.

Alaska Day 7: Return to civilization aka Fairbanks

Up at 7:30a. We hear there were "spectacular" lights around 2:30 last night, but I'm taking that with a large grain of salt. Breakfast is apple waffles and reindeer sausage. We pack up, then go over to the old lodge to pick out some things from the larger gift shop there--Arctic Circle t-shirts and toques.

Some laying about, then lunch--potato soup and beer bread. More chatting with the guests--they are impressed with Mindy and Martha's prowess in cooking (as I always am). We hear that the next group consists of 19 Asians with a couple of guides, although not the ones we were with previously--it will be a full house, even using the older lodge. Then, we hear we will go out on the 4p plane later in the day. So, more chatting and laying about.

Sven, the dogsled rider and guide, drops by and does his shpiel--he's the Henny Youngman of Bettles, and is apparently fluent in Japanese.

We wandered back over to the visitors' center, and Martha bought a small musk ox plush. She and Mindy have mentioned how expensive musk ox wool is--I would guess so, since they are all in the wild. Apparently, the fur from their bellies comes off in the undergrowth, and is collected that way.

We finally leave at 4:30 for a one hour flight, saying goodbye to Hazel (the manager) and Anna (chief cook and bottle washer). Flight is uneventful but pretty. Two planes were needed to clear out the place--at one point Mindy ominously texted "I think someone is following us". Waited at Wright Air Service for the hotel shuttle--30 minutes later, a cab arrived to hold all six of us (Sarah and Gavin were with us) as well as our luggage. Apparently, the hotel shuttle is down for repairs, and hotel management has never heard of renting a replacement. We got ourselves wedged in and made it to the hotel, only to find that Fairbankians (Fairbankites?) have dinner at 5p, after which the restaurants close. We got a pizza place on the phone and 90 minutes later we were eating. "Fairbanks--Bring Your Own Food!" 

Beard Day 7: Running out of beard references.

Alaska Day 6: Still above the Arctic Circle

Woke up around 7a--Mindy was already up. Made myself presentable. George has a sore throat. Breakfast is bacon, eggs, hash browns, and toast.

We suited up (including George) and went out to learn how to snowshoe. The hardest part is getting them on--it takes another person (who preferably isn't already wearing a pair) to strap you in. We were all expecting a variation on tennis rackets, but like all sports, it's all EXTREME and day-glo metal. The actual walking part was easy--think walking in huge flip-flops--but exhausting. George and Martha dropped out quickly (I thought it was game of them to attempt it at all) while Mindy and I and another midwestern woman went down a trail. We went about 10 minutes more, thought we might get lost if we went further, and turned back. I was drenched with sweat by the time we got inside.

Lunch was a salmon burger and bean soup. After some rest, we went over to the visitor's center run by the Park Service. Ranger DaleLynn told us that the "Gates of the Arctic National Wilderness Park" is the second largest in the system--8.4 million square miles, no roads, structures, trails, or paths, formed in 1980 due to the pipeline. We watched a Nova video on the park--kept falling asleep after the morning's exercise. Went back for a nap, then dinner--chicken and pasta. 

We thought we would get another nap, but then someone shouted--lights!  We rushed around, got our gear on, and ran out to see--not much, although there was definitely something there. Some people were oohing and ahhing in what had to be positive thinking or hallucinating. We went back in to wait for better lights--at least it was clear. A second attempt yielded about the same level of success in about half the time. We hunkered down in the lodge, checking every half hour or so. The guy running the weather station dropped in--he works midnight to 8a, and downed two mugs of coffee while taking back two more in cups. He had just come in that day with a new snowmobile, dragged behind another one on a sled. He's got another one still at the depot, 30 miles away--you don't want to be without transportation here. Mindy went to bed, and I checked in with her every hour until 1a, when it became clear we had seen what we were going to see--imagine a rainbow going from horizon to horizon, then turn the rainbow dark grey. Well, we will get two more chances in Chena.

Beard Day 6: Me am clean shaven (comic book joke).

Alaska Day 5: Above the Arctic Circle

66°54' N, 151°31' W--Bettles, AK

We went to bed too early last night, so we were up by 5a. Some signs the the dog sledders were near, but not at the finish line yet. We packed (well, Mindy packed) for the next leg of the trip. There's a 40 pound limit on the plane, so we consolidated and left two bags at the hotel--we'll be back.

We went down to breakfast, then I thought we should have the coats handy for when the mushers came in. Of course, I saw flashes from our room's window for the first place finisher while I was doing so. We ran out and saw his team leaving the field--then it was time for the shuttle.

We were told to be there by 9a to check in at the airport, and the shuttle was on the hour, so we arrived to find Bettles Air Service closed. The others were dropped off at the airport proper, then we returned--no luck. Mindy went over to see what the hours were, and found the door unlocked. So, we hung out until the staff arrived--they thought it was an afternoon trip. We also met Sarah and Gavin, a young couple from Australia on a long trip. Mindy played in the snow with the son of one of the staff while we waited.

Then, we were off in the 6 passenger Piper. We loved this--I rescind my comment on the train, THIS IS THE WAY TO TRAVEL. Took lots of pics.

Took about an hour to get to Bettles Lodge--35 miles north of the Arctic Circle. A cozy lodge with multiple structures and a very nice staff. We went through a quick orientation, then got our winter rental gear worked out.

A quick lunch (soup and a sammich) was followed by a tour of the facility--we took a van around with two dogs that alternately rode inside or raced beside us. Bettles is there because of the airstrip--a combination fueling stop and lodge. It's owned by the federal department of transportation--as soon as you leave the road, you're in surrounding Evansville. Everything they need comes via air or the ice road--the latter only available a few months a year.

A nap followed, then dinner--pot roast, rice, and Asian slaw. It was time to fully bundle up for the bonfire. It was -11°F when we exited the building, but with the exception of the part of my face that was uncovered, I was fine. The weather did not cooperate--clouds moved on. We hung out by the fire until 11p, then I stayed up for an hour past that before crashing. Mindy kept checking every 90 minutes--no luck seeing the Northern Lights tonight.  Maybe tomorrow.

Beard Day 5--Flintstones, meet the Flintstones...

Alaska Day 4: Fairbanks!

We got to sleep in--well, 7:30, since the time change is playing havoc with our rhythms. Big breakfast in the lobby--Mindy made herself a homemade egg mcmuffin. Then we suited up and took a walk. We had made major plans (and acquisitions) for the weather--multiple gloves, balaclavas, heavy boots, long underwear--and so we managed to handle the bone chilling cold of...wait for it...17° F.

Where's the cold? Reports say that Alaska is seeing 20% of normal snow, and some of the qualifying trials for the Iditerod dog sled race have been shortened or cancelled. Fortunately, there's a trial ending in Fairbanks--just outside our hotel. It's supposed to end the next morning, so we'll listens for cheers in the middle of the night. 

While we waited for that, Mindy and I walked over to the visitor's center and got this pic.

Did I mention the Asians? We met them--about 50 of them--on the train, and they ended up at our hotel. They have a full-sized bus at their disposal, and they travel in a group. They seem nice but apparently speak no English.

Shockingly, there wasn't a lot going on in Fairbanks on a Sunday, so we mostly hung out at the hotel, except for a trip to a restaurant via taxi. We also packed for tomorrow's flight...

Beard Day 4--surprising how fast it went from actor perma-stubble to the ol' prospector.

Alaska Day 2: Like Flying in a Cattle Car With Wings

61°13' N, 149°53' W -- Anchorage, AK 

5 AM came early, but we had to get up and ready for the shuttle. Milwaukee's General Mitchell airport is okay, but most of them are rather generic. I took some pics--see if you can guess which airport is which.

 

We had to get back to the airline hub at Chicago's O'Hare, so we proceeded to taxi longer than we were in the air via Embriar puddle jumper. Then, a 2.5 hour layover until the leg to Seattle. Of course, the connecting gate was less than 50 feet away. I lucked out on the flight--aisle seat with an empty middle. I did agree to swap with George in the other aisle during the flight. I lost some weight since my last long flight, and I don't have the posterior padding I used to have, so I was ready to move anyway.

The Seattle airport is larger than I remember--it was looking like a long hike before a guy on a cart offered us a ride. Then. Came. The. Flight. Somehow, it takes almost as long to go from Seattle to Anchorage as it takes to go from Chicago to Seattle. Of course, two screaming babies were just in front of us. The dad seemed to be as annoyed as we were. I got through the last hour with some Frank Sinatra on the iPod.

We made it to the hotel, and what was on the TV? University of Fairbanks hockey vs...Ohio State! We just spent 16 hours in airports and airplanes, jumped 4 time zones--and still can't get away from the Buckeyes!!!

Tomorrow, we complete the triumvirate of transportation...

Beard Day 2. Mindy referred to me as "scruffy".

Alaska Day 1: The Journey of a Thousand Miles Begins with a Trip to the In-Laws

42°54' N, 87°55' W -- Oak Creek, WI

After some frantic (OK, mostly me) packing, we left at 8:02a. Packing had to be optimized, since we're taking heavy cold weather gear--long underwear, sweatshirts, boots, etc--and one of the upcoming legs of the trip has a single bag, 40 pound limit. From Columbus to Lima to Ft. Wayne to Merrillville to Chicago to Milwaukee to New Berlin; Mindy's hometown and where my in-laws George and Martha still live. Driving days are generally boring, especially when it's a drive you've taken many times.

It was a bright, shiny day most of the way as I drove us over. The weather went south as we went north--just as Mindy took over driving duties, unfortunately. It went from rain to freezing rain to snow very quickly. Mindy called it "snowman snow"--huge flakes since we were so close to the lake. Mindy always drives the Chicago run--I just can't handle the traffic. I did offer to drive in the bad weather but she was resolute (whew!). I took some pics of the snow...

We pulled into the hotel at 4p central--about 8 hours driving time plus breaks. We then picked up the in-laws, went out for some pizza, then back to the hotel. The airport shuttle picks us up at 5:50a--gotta get some sleep.

One last thing--Beard Day 1. Mindy referred to me as a ragamuffin.

Day 0: North to Alaska

Mindy and I are off on an Alaskan vacation (actually, I'm planning to post the whole thing after we return--so let’s hope there's no horrible accident, or these entries will be rather ironic). Why go there in the winter, you might ask? It's the Aurora Borealis aka the Northern Lights. We will travel by road, air, rail, and snow. Dogsleds and snowshoes may be involved. At one point, we will cross the Arctic Circle. We're going with my in-laws (George is a computer geek like me, and Martha is into crafts and sewing like Mindy, so we work together well). I am also planning to grow a beard--we'll see how that goes.

Mindy and I have been prepping for months (she did most of the work)--getting cold weather gear, working out travel details, and coordinating with the in-laws and our work.

Tomorrow, we ride!